MISTER FREEDOM® COLLECTIONS
Les Apaches Collection
BY: MISTER FREEDOM®
MF® Originals Manufacturer
MFSC® American Headquarters.
Vintage clothing and accessories supplier.
7161 Beverly Boulevard
Los Angeles, CALIFORNIA 90036
Tel: (323) 653 2014
Fax: (323) 932 9590
11:00 am to 6:00 pm, 7 days a week.
Unlike the rest of the denim jeans out there boasting the intimidating “Highest Quality”, “World’s Best Denim” and “Unequaled Craftsmanship”, our Californian is simply a pair of five-pocket jeans cut from good denim, and made in Los Angeles, California.
Just like the fine folks coming up with iPhone OS, we like to fix what’s not broken around here, so, although related to our original Lot.54, the Lot.64 comes with a few modifications:
The denim we are using this time is a Japanese selvedge 13 3/4 Oz. indigo twill, milled on shuttle looms in Japan.
This white/pink selvedge ID denim is both slubby in texture and varies in color slightly. This is due to the contrasting shades of indigo and fluctuating size of the warp yarn. From a certain angle, the raw denim appears to have a subtle vertical stripe pattern or ring. With proper wear and normal washing this denim will develop a very nice patina. Wear and patina will obviously depend on your activities, with varied results according to whether you’ll be riding a desk or a horse.
Unlike the Lot.54, the leather back pocket patch now bears no branding and is left to the discretion of the wearer to customize or leave alone. The original white “M” pocket stitch is still there, keeping back pockets a bit more conspicuous than the Bayeux Tapestry type ornaments I see at times…
The back pockets of the Lot.64 are fully lined with the same fabric used for the pocket bags.
We added a printed cloth waist patch, already introduced on our Buckaroos blue jeans (so now you know what was hiding under the MF branded leather patch. This cloth patch will fade, get dirty from your belt and eventually tear with repeat wear and wash.
Of more relevance to most is the slight change in leg silhouette of the Lot.64. versus Lot.54.
No, we still haven’t fallen to the dark side and made a skinny in a ‘vintage wash‘…
We also have decided to still offer the Lot.64 in two different length, not a very common feature these days, when ‘stacking’ is the norm. So, less need to worry about locating a Union Special for a hemming job.
I like the look of original hems and leg shape on old Levi’s 501s. Because several inseams were available, some tended to purchase their appropriately fitting length instead of cuffing or cutting. An old XX with its original hem has the very pleasant leg shape balance than seems to often lack when jeans are altered.
For the Californian, we have made TWO leg patterns, one for inseam 32 and one for inseam 34, and not merely shortened the length. This way the leg retains its shape (slightly ‘ballooning’.) This sounds like a lot of efforts for not much, but those who get it will appreciate. Of course this is all irrelevant if you’re into big cowboy-cuffs.
For pocketing, we are using two different types of New Old Stock fabrics, both indigo woven plaids. Similar in weight but different in pattern. The pocket bags are random and a specific plaid is not available in all waist/inseam. We just used up what was at hand, another “it-is-what-it-is” MF® funky way of doing it.
PATTERN: Original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by traditional 1950′s era blue jeans with a 1960′s twist. Adapted but shamelessly lifted from the iconic and almighty XX 501.
Silhouette inspired by vintage fits and old photography, BRMC meets Beatniks. Traditional mid-rise with straight slightly tapered leg.
13 3/4 Oz selvedge indigo denim. White/pink selvedge ID. Milled on shuttle looms in Japan..
NOS 100% cotton woven plaid, indigo dyed yarn. Two different woven patterns, as they come.
Designed and made in Los Angeles, California, by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
* Five pocket, button fly, selvedge leg seams,…
* Original “M” stitch design and solid un-branded cowhide leather patch.
* Printed MFSC cloth patch on waist band.
* Hidden back pocket rivets with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Fully lined back pocket with NOS woven plaid twill.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Twelve types of all cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange.
* Selvedge button hole flap (yes, it’s under the overlock, we’re vicious.)
* Two inseam options. 32 or 34
* NOS all cotton woven plaid pocket lining.
* Original MF® metal cast waist/fly buttons.
*Unmarked copper riveting for reinforcement.
* Made in USA
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The Californian Lot.64 comes UN-WASHED and cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an original cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 “Californian” actually measures about 33” x 36” before wash. It will shrink to approx. 32” x 34” after rinse/dry.
Which size works for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I wear a comfortable waist 32 in the Lot.64
We recommend getting your usual waist size, although proper fit is a subjective matter and everyone has their own idea of what looks good.
As with all denim twill, shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
Although some like to wear their jeans raw, a more common option is the cold rinse/line dry/wear-when-damp. This allows to set creases and to have a stand-by-themselves pair of jeans the next day, an Instagram favorite.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/rinsed measurements. Please note that in our case, ‘rinsed’ means a 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie minimal shrinkage).
13.75 oz DENIM
Californian Lot. 64: Uncle Sam Issue
Color: 13.75oz Denim
Californian Lot. 64: Okinawa Issue
Color: 14oz Denim
Californian Lot. 54
Color: 12oz NOS Denim
Californian Lot. 44
Color: Options +