The Hacienda system in Mexico dates back to the Spanish conquistadores of the 16th century. Large estates (up to 25,000 acres at times) were granted to a chosen few hacendados by the Spanish Crown, along with the natives who had lived on it for generations.
This inherited unjust structure mostly ended around 1917, after Villa, Carranza and Zapata got the best of most estates, burning and pillaging away during their campaigns. Land was somewhat redistributed to Indians and owners limited to 200 acres, following Zapata’s principle ‘la tierra es para quien la travaja’ (the land belongs to those who work it.)
Most wealthy hacendados lived in the Capital Mexico City, or Paris, and closed their eyes on how the often ruthless administrators ran the estate, fully enforcing their feudal rights on hundreds of peones.
Being well travelled and living the life, the hacendados sported fancy suiting made from imported fabrics. The styles were very much influenced by European tailoring, adapted to local needs, tastes and in typical ‘tropical’ fashion of old Mexico. When annually visiting their estate, high leather gaiters, fancy sombrero or fedora and fine silk neckwear completed the outfits…
As can be seen on period photography of ragtag fighters (see some examples below), a lot of these mismatched sack coats, trousers and waistcoats made it to the ranks of the Revolutionaries, as ‘souvenirs’ of haciendas’ looting. Nothing wrong in looking sharp in front of La Muerte, verda?
This is the background for our HACENDADO suiting series, again to take like a margarita, with a grain of salt por favor…
An original mfsc pattern, inspired by 1920′s-30′s short-type vintage jackets.
Grey Covert Stripe: selvedge 60% cotton and 40% linen heavy canvas with a random stripe pattern. The random repeat makes this fabric look halfway between a covert (salt & pepper) and stripe type textile. Technically 12 Oz. it feels heavier because of the yarn gauge. It takes an entire day to mill about 17 meters of that fabric, on old shuttle looms. The factory was thrilled… Milled in Japan.
Fabric inspired by a vintage 1943 bag from the Swiss military.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in small ethically run factories in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
FRONT PANEL and UNDER COLLAR lining:
100% cotton indigo dyed popeline.
Tightly woven all cotton sateen.
* High buttoned front style (five button front).
* Notch lapel, with indigo dyed popeline facing.
* Off set shoulder seams.
* Flat felled seam chain stitch construction. 100% cotton thread.
* One chest and two waist slanted welt pockets.
* Concealed stripe cotton MFSC ticking chest pocket.
* Genuine Corrozo wood buttons, matching tones.
* Adjustable double button sleeve cuffs.
* No exposed seams/ no overlock.
* Original MFSC woven rayon neck ‘hanging loop’ label.
* Homespun: Natural/earth tones dyed yarns plain weave textile, a heavier blend of 68% hemp and 32% cotton, 11 oz., solid white selvedge, inspired by a turn of the century homespun French textile from a vintage South-West of France farmer blouse.
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I am usually a 38/medium and wear a 38 “Blouson El Americano”.
True to size but refer to chart for rinsed/hang dry measurements.
Do not use hot water or machine dryer as this might result in excessive shrinkage and color loss.
All fabrics will shrink to approximately the same tagged size after an original cold soak and hang dry.
The reason for the original cold soak/dry is purely aesthetic. I like the natural torque/twisting of the fabric that gets rid of that fresh-off-the-shelf look.
As a matter of personal preferences, we tend to not make our clothes look vintage by distressing them artificially with harsh chemicals/sanding treatments from industrial wash houses. We instead use old tricks and details to make our clothes look like they’ve been around for some time. To some, these “Blouson El Americano” look like they are off a dusty bygone menswear store shelf… In days of disposable fashion, we don’t think that is a bad thing either.
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El Americano Waistcoat
Color: Grey Stripe
Color: 14oz Denim
Color: Dobby Stripe