Here is numéro deux in our Map Shirt family, its pattern still inspired by the M1953 “Gomer Pyle” Utility Shirt issued to the Marine Corps in the 1950’s. This time nothing to do with frogs, if not for the fact that ‘Cavalry Twill’ shares its origin with tricotine, a double twill the French came up with around 1886.
After handing over to our friends at Sugar Cane a small swatch of vintage indigo cavalry twill from the Mister Freedom® textile archives, all we had to do around here was sit quietly and wait for DHL to deliver a sample of the new milled fabric… What came out of the Japanese mill tasked with duplicating our swatch was this obscure and dark selvedged denim-like twill…
It kind of looked like denim but was not technically denim, i was told. Someone started to technically explain me what made the indigo warp over the double weft a specific twill, in japanese, but I mentioned I had a 06:30 to get a tattoo.
If the resulting fabric looked more blackish-grey than indigo blue, a simple wash test settled all doubts we had a new ‘awsome‘ fabric for Fall 2014.
Back to our Map Shirt. The overall pattern is similar to its ‘frog skin’ sister, with a few adaptations, such as the use of the twill fabric selvedge on the two front panel folds and on the buttonhole placket. But only you will know.
9.7 oz ‘Cavalry twill’ 100% cotton indigo
Pattern inspired my 1950’s UMSC-issued utility shirts.
The Cavalry twill Map Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Fabric milled in Japan.
* Comfortable over-shirt fit.
* USN-type chambray accents (collar facing, wrist gussets, pocket flap facing, inside pockets)
* Two chest pockets with flap closure.
* Concealed button front closure.
* Selvedge button hole placket and front panel fold.
* One large map inside pocket, side opening.
* One concealed chest pocket, top opening.
* Light brown corozo buttons.
* Flat-felled seam construction.
* Tonal 100% cotton thread stitching.
* Made in Japan.
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This garment comes raw/unwashed and will shrink to tagged size after an original cold soak/line dry.
I soak mine, spun dry and wore it damp to shape it, just because it is still 105 in California. It fully dried on a hanger overnight and was crispy in the morning. Poifect.
Our Map Shirt is intended to be quite a comfortable fitting top, easy to wear over a chambray shirt, a Tshirt, or a Batman costume when it’s that time of the year.
If you are a Medium in mfsc jackets/shirts, you are a Medium in the Map Shirt.
Maximum shrinkage to be expected with the use of hot water and heat dryer, but is NOT recommended, as unnecessary loss of indigo dye and unattractive color marbling will occur.
This indigo cavalry twill fabric should be treated like premium indigo denim, as it will bleed, shrink/stretch, and fade with normal wear and subsequent washing.
When needed, hand wash in cold water with mild detergent and line dry.
Please refer to sizing chart for raw/rinsed measurements.
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Color: BR Chambray
Appaloosa Denim Shirt
Color: NOS Selvedge Denim
Color: Brown Twill