On this garment, we are taking design cues and visuals from original One-Zero jackets, as sported by SOG (Studies and Observations Group) Recon Team leaders (1-0, pronounced one-zero) during the Vietnam conflict. On recon missions, a team leader would be assisted by a 1-1 (one-one, American radio operator), a 1-2 (one-two, the third American), and a highly-skilled and combat-seasoned selection of 9-10 indigenous troops (Montagnards or “Yards”, also affectionately referred to as “the little people” by their tall American counterparts.)
Back on point. Three basic types of these black nylon jackets apparently exist (two pull-over front styles, and one full-button style), all developed and designed by legendary Deputy Chief Ben Baker at his CISO (Counter-Insurgency Support Office) supply operation, based on the island of Okinawa, Japan (1963-?), where custom sterile (unmarked, unlabeled and untraceable) gear such as rucksacks, Jungle Boots (the Okinawa Boot that influenced our MF® Trooper design), black pajamas (Uncle Charles’ favorite), sweaters, knives, …, were produced in total secrecy.
1-0 jackets were initially designed as rain jackets for operations, but were deemed too noisy in the bush and ended up being mostly worn around camp as “party jackets”, with sewn-on unit patches, custom embroideries and morale patches. Needless to say, originals are ultra rare, and I’ve never seen one. To prevent a plethora of knock-offs from flooding the militaria market, collectors are reluctant - and rightfully so - to publish detailed photos of the front and back of those garments. Keeps fakes out of private collections.
For our humble version, and instead of an un-inspired attempt at replicating an original verbatim, or using a civilian sport windbreaker pattern (which the originals were based on), we decide to dissect a Belgium Paratrooper 1955 jump smock, and adapt the design to blend it with what a plausible fourth type 1-0 jacket could have looked like.
That 1955 Belgium uniform pattern has roots in the British paratrooper Denison smocks of WW2.
We heavily tweaked the original military pattern/design in order to make it work for our project. We removed the now-useless “beaver tail” (that kept the jacket somewhat in place when jumping off planes), re-adjusted pocket configuration for better functionality, substituted the half-zip with a six brass snaps closure, moved the cinch tabs to the natural waistline, adjusted the length to sit just below the natural waist, etc…
We left the jacket unlined, with all clean seams, another construction challenge. We opted for an inside shoulder yoke cut from contrasting ERDL camo, for that “use whatever fabric is at hand” local tailor or rigger vibe.
The resulting garment features a very intricate construction/design, another “tour de force” from pattern extraordinaire Fukutomi Sensei of Toyo Enterprises.
The MF® 1-0 jacket is available in two distinct fabric options:
The Black nylon version is obviously a direct nod at the vibe of the originals, without the unit patches, featuring a heavy 2x2 100% nylon twill, same base fabric as BR’s (Buzz Rickson’s) vintage Mil-Specs USAF replica flight jackets.
This version is a functional pull-over style wind-proof jacket, for the outdoors, all kinds of sporting activities or just for looking ridiculously fabulous.
The Lizard (or Lezard) camo version, printed canvas fabric, 100% cotton, is a nod to 1950s French TAP (Troupes Aéroportées), previously mentioned with the 2015 release of the MF® TAP Lezard “Vanden” Jacket.
Note: This disruptive pattern is our mfsc interpretation of the classic French TAP47 “Lizard” camouflage (aka “Lézzard” or “Léopard” as the French call it), popular during the 1950s Algerian War as the fabric of choice for French Paratroopers (TAP).
Introduced in Sept. 1950 and inspired by WW2 field-tested British Denison smock camouflage (source: “Paras Français Algérie 1954-1962”, Histoire & Collection ISBN: 978-2-35250-164-0), many different versions of the Lizard exist, not unlike its Tiger Stripes American successor. A lot of intel in this thread.
We opted for the TAP47 pattern (tan/khaki background with green and brown horizontal brush strokes, adapted for tropical theater as opposed to the darker/greener version of the European ETO), as used for M51-M56 tents.
Our source fabric was a genuine vintage NOS French M1956 canvas quarter-shelter tent. We opted for a canvas base this time, not HBT as our previously-released Lézard printed fabric from 2015.
The version is a functional outdoor pull-over style jacket, for the outdoors, for standing out in urban jungles, and for looking equally ridiculously fabulous.
The MF® 1-0 (One-Zero) Jacket is designed in California by MisterFreedom®, and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
Read the full blog post about about the One-Zero Smock here.
