La Tonkinoise Double Indigo Twill


Pattern: An original mfsc pattern inspired by obscure 1920’s-40’s military shirting and vintage custom-made uniforms.

Fabric: Double Indigo Twill: 100% cotton dark indigo warp x dark indigo weft, 12.4 Oz., solid white selvedge ID. Dark and saturated indigo color, with subtle purple hues.

  • All original mfsc pattern.
  • ‘Windproof’ high button-up collar.
  • Arcuate pattern on back of collar.
  • Double chest pocketing, large uniform-style format.
  • Intricate tailor-made type buttonhole placket construction.
  • Selvedge button placket.
  • Elaborate sleeve cuff/elbow reinforcement pattern, snap closure.
  • Selvedge side gussets, self fabric.
  • Snap button front and cuff closure, with complimenting amber brown corozo wood pocket and collar buttons.
  • 100% cotton thread.
  • Tonal stitching on outside, ivory contrast chainstitch on inside.
  • “Surplus” mfsc woven rayon label.
  • Made in Japan.

The Mister Freedom® La Tonkinoise comes raw/unwashed, and will shrink to tagged size. Follow the usual recommended initial method before wearing: cold soak for 30mn, spin dry and line dry. Please refer to sizing chart to determine which size works for you.

CL's Advice: This Tonkinoise 2019 edition is considered more like an over-shirt than a trim uniform shirt. I personally opted for a size SMALL, as the MEDIUM fit felt much too roomy. Consider sizing down for a trimmer silhouette if the measurements match your target sizing expectations. When in doubt, compare our measurements with a similar style garment you own and fits the way you like. For a comfortable fit and for layering, consider your usual size in mfsc shirting for the 2019 double indigo Tonkinoise.

Hand wash or machine wash on delicate, cold water, minimal eco-friendly detergent. Turn inside-out to avoid marbling of the fabric. Line dry only.

This fabric will develop attractive patina over time, according to the owner’s activities, frequency of wear and laundering choices.

If the Tonkinoise is loaded with a plethora of details borrowed from several vintage shirts revisited á la MF®, a stand-out feature is the unusual collar pattern. This was adapted from the wind-protectant high neck flippable collar of an obscure vintage US military wool shirt from our archives.

This interpretation of the Tonkinoise differs from the 2015 versions as snaps have replaced the front and cuffs’ corozo buttons. The collar closure has been inverted, with buttons to the left and buttonholes to the right. When fully buttoned, the collar can be folded down into a “wind-proof” type roll-neck, albeit probably not the most comfortable experience, unless you’re into stiff necks.

The fabric of choice for this iteration comes out of a long mfsc hibernation. This dark 12.4 Oz. “Double Indigo Twill”, with saturated purple hues, has shown its patina potential since then. Panel torquing and seam puckering should make for some nice indigo contrasts with normal wash/wear routine.

The MF® Tonkinoise Double Indigo Twill is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

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